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Well, it has been a while and it the next site update could be even longer! Oh well.
I guess a bunch of problems have been done, the Spittle Hill Guide has been released and Flock Hill and Dry Valley are being comprehensively mapped. Stefan Hadfield is the second person to 'get qualified' majouring in Dynos and Power, the race is on. I have expanded the curriculum to Honours and Masters level.BACHELOR OF CASTLE HILL
I have also done some tick list updates.Quantum Field Ticklist
Please make it your bussiness to stop forigners chalking foot holds and leaving huge tickmarks, I think bouldering will take off this Winter sending season so everyone get out there!
The very first BACHELOR OF CASTLE HILL has been awarded to Thomas Holye the Cosmonaut. He naturally majored in Dynos, putting in many days effort to send the often spoogy dyno 'The Echo'. Lepton Monkey at Dry Valley proved to be cruxey as he took many big falls with one hand in the crack! He is currently working on his second major 'Power' and waiting for the Honors course to start.
About 4m left of Mirage in Quantum Field is a new overlooked line.
Some running shoes have been found up at dry valley, ring 351 8558 if they are yours. Flock Hill has been in excellent condition but it is soon to be lambing so get in quick. Some sick bastard did a sit start to Cosmic Energy!
Sorry that this list didn't work, (excel document not word). List of the hardest problems in the entire basin, interestingly the ungraded problems make up about 1/3 of the total. Tick List. Interesting to read the disscusion on Mojozone about it when they could not see it? To hopefully clear up the point of this list I made it for me and the few others I know who are interested in climbing HARD problems. Not grading problems can give the impression that standards are not being pushed and people are not out there cranking since there are no big numbers to report, this list shows that is not the case. If anyone wants details on any problems on this list I would be glad to tell you anything you wish to know.
On the left side of The Goldilocks wall is a new problem called Rumplestiltskin (18.9 Map 17). And just right of Leinengrad Cowpats is new problem envolving a interesting mono(64 map 6).
Thanks to the terrible ski season the bouldering sending season has been going well for those getting out there. Although activity has been limited to Quantum and Spittle (a little bit of Wuthering heights action, if anyone finds a blue swiss army knife up there let me know!). A number of projects around spittle have been sent - Enisto V8 is near Allah Protects, a pock to mantle thing V8 near Tiger eyes, a sit start to the left of When Animals Attack is deceivingly hard, near Mantra is Gomez Gets Gumboots a nasty pocket problem to commiting rock over and up the hill a bit is Yardage a face with a long move to a sloper. For the rest you will have to wait for the new guide, we are told it has at least 1500 problems! In Quantum the sit start to the unrepeated Ristretto has been sent which adds a long dyno into the fiesty problem.
Mantle Fest ResultsMatt Pierson won the Retro Clothing Best Dressed Award, for more results go to Mantle Fest Results.
Near the Opera House is a new problem Nefarious (18.9 map 3), jump to a crimp and yard on up. 3 meters right of Leningrad Cowpats is Doctor Zhivago (63.9 Map 6), a good pocket move and a cranky finish which has a sit start as well!
To the right of the Beautiful Layback in Quantum is Ginsu, a new nasty face climb finishing up its neighbour. On the back of the Headlights boulder on the right is a new face/slab climb. Crimp Operator has a lot of moves at the start then stab for a good pockect then a high but easier-than-it-looks top out. Alaskan Man Whore is now the name of (49 map 23).
There has been a burst of problem development in Spittle Hill due to the upcoming guide book publication. Most has been concentrated between the Gift and General Saint with over 20 new problems in this area. In an area below General Saint now dubbed the Grotto new problems include the Vigil V6, Satens Little Helper V7, The Casterway V4 and the Soothsayer V6 (which has a hard sit start). On the way there you will see a new wall (where did it come from) with about 4 lines, the right hand V7 is excellent. Up the Hill a little takes you to The Fat Of The Land V6, a slab to mantle. Futher still leds to a hard pocket pulling sit start The Final Cut V8/9 and a bunch of other difficult problems. On the Beautiful Edges boulder The Fetish is a sharp crimpy V4 quite a contrast to its neighbour. If you have any new problem information for Spittle Hill email us and I will get it to the right people.
A couple of new hard ones up at Dry Valley, Wisp is a crimp dyno to slopers east of the Texas Hat. At the east end of the top field is a problem consisting of a foot long verticle slot big enough for 1/3 finger tip and a bunch of slopers, Concept Of The Good is one the hardest in the field.
Is anyone out there working on there bachelor?
A bunch of foriegners have been snaking heaps of three star first ascents up at Flock Hill, what are all the locals doing? If you head to the left half of the field that is where most of the action has been happening. Lots of big proud bold lines have been cleaned and climbed by our overseas friends, no longer do you have to pick between all the amazing projects to clean as there are lots to climb already that are clean and hard enough to keep most people amused. The Sharma no grading thing has quite a following at the moment so no big numbers to report and there is no way to describe the locations of all the new problems so you will just have to go and find them yourself!
Seems a handful of new problems have been done in Spittle Hill around the Gift area.
Yup, someone finally did that Vapour Trail thingy.
Well its been a long and hot summer, lots of tourists and some viligant locals have been braving the heat. Here is all the happenings I can piece together. In Quantum Field San Fran Punks (18.1 Map 1) is a new V4, pull on and throw for jug. Warp Seven has a sit start that is well cool. Around the back of the Hunters Bar boulder is a new face climb called Kumfacia, ungraded and exits to the right. The cool arete (51.9 Map 8) has had a cool V6 sit start added. Near the abseil streak are some new pocket problems, a faint groove (20 map 12), a campus to long rockover move (21 Map 12) which also has a left hand traversing in start. All are ungraded.
On the Goldilocks Wall Brother Bear V6 (20.1 Map 17) is the newest addition, of course a smeary slab. An excellent V4 Prow has been added next to Oracle called Hard Start Easy Finish (50.5 Map22). Blamonge V4 (2.5 Map 25) has a bad landing. Shreik V3 (15.1 Map 25) is hidden away. Geng Kian Waan V1 (33.1 Map 29) is a traverse then up near Dancing With The Devil. Close by is a new slab with a bad landing V4 (30.5 Map 29).
If you venture up to Flock Hill you may notice lots of new crazy looking brushed problems, half of which probably haven't been climbed but a lot of which have been. The main area of activity has been around Humpf! and down the hill from there. All these problems are by a few locals and a group of keen Yanks, who are responsible for brushing impossible looking problems, one of which is now one of the hardest problems around. Camp America is ten hard powerful moves of steep prow climbing in the V10 range. Quite different to Girl Power which is one move!
Zoom is a new ungraded sit start traversing into a awkward v4 (5 Map 20). To the right of break beats the blank shallow groove is now called Nullification (0.1 Map 18).
Some swiss guy Fred did a pull on to Lock and Load, the solution was a big and fun double dyno. In the boulder marathon lots of new problems were established in the lower part of flock hill, some very good and some of dubious quality - cool.
Megalopolis V4 is a maybe new line to the right of Suicide By Hallucination. Below Sea Egg is a new V6 mantle with a baffeling sequence. The sit start assult continues, the latest victims start with a V1 slab (20 Map 1) has a steap slopey start. Near hear is a smeary arete (50.9 Map 1). The classic Hobie has an improbable dynamic sit start. And Fatwa has a excellent sit start (traverse in from the left) with one sharp hold and tricky moves. Night Of The Long Knives V7? is near ocean and is a traversing sit start to the V3 arete (29 Map 15).
Near Ocean is a new bulbous problem, just to the right of 25 Map 15. A sit start to the highball Double Espresso is also done. And down on map 1 near the old toliet location is Omerta (23 Map 1) which is a sit start into what was a jump start.
Next to Infinite Jest is a new arete called Sloper System* (9.1 Map 2). Also near hear is Dolemite a slopey runnel thing, it does not top out. At the other end of the field is Vanishing Point (33.2 Map 24) a very improbable line next to South Side. At the Cave Stream boulders next to the track to Dry Valley is a new V5 pocket rising traverse.
The project mentioned below was sent in between snow flurries to create Retro Vertigo** (23 Map 12), hard moves off one pocket and a throw for a dish then pull around the corner over a bad landing and up. Kind of up stairs from here is a new rockover problem named Oooosh! which is very airy. Also the nasty sit start project near Ignition finnally succumbed to create Infinite Jest (9 Map 2). The jump start (17 Map 16) is now a very good pull on with a few hard moves untill the good hold, Top Gun*.
A nice v2 slab has been added called Autotron (1.2 Map 17). Down by Desiel a imporbable sit start to Sand Bag has been done - pull on with one hold and catch a mono crimp then an all out throw for the lip. In Spittle Hill another mantle called Mantlemania V10 is next to Tiger Eyes, and is more a rockover than a mantle. Back in Quantum a mantle has a devious sit start added (31 Map 1). Some where hidden in map 12 is a new line, kind of a nice problem especialy the sit start and next door is project that will be very classic.
Flock Hill Boulder Marathon on the 7th of december (i think)
On map 19 kinda near Monkey and the Magic Peach is a new arete - Prettier Than a Snowflake, does not top out up the crack (which is a project if you are keen). To the left is a new V4 slab. The sit start to Short Black has been done droping a few stars and adding a few grades. In spittle hill Snoop Doggy Dog is the name of the newest V11, lets see how long it lasts.
In behind Joe 90 and to the right is a new jamming problem (22.1 Map 19), start in the small archway on a big lieback and span out on jams untill you can reach the jugs. On the Horseshoe boulder the project next to the undercling problem has been climbed, Leverage (29 Map 5). A new overlooked V7 has been added near Thin Lizzy, Skin Graft (39.1 Map 8) has good slopers and bad feet.
A few more people have been active lately and a number of hard additions have been made. The Bio Hazard has had a sit start added. The mantle Growler has a intense sit start also. For those who like spliting their finger tips the sit start to Anthrax was done and the moves are said to be harder than the top section, V10. Also the last and great project on the Monkey and the Magic Peach wall has been done utilizing the same bizzar move as for its neigbours, V10 (2 Map 19). To the right of Break Beats a V10 mantle thing has apparantly been climbed (0 Map 18). Opposite Rocket pants the project was sent.
The project left of One Move Boulder was sent to create Reflections V10 (49 Map 5). Left of Mecca is a new V8.
New sit starts include a V6 prow (22 Map 14) and to the right a pocket to sloper problem V6 (23.1 Map 14). Down in Rambandit gully is big throw to a pocket V6 (38 Map 27?). Next to Vlad the Impaler is a new dyno with a commiting heel toe V5 (37.1 Map 17). And one more groove project goes down, this wrist killer is V6 (26 Map 15).
Over the last week the sit start onslaught continued. The Assailants being a V6 sit start (41 Map 8) with a big move to a sloper, another starting on side pulls and then slopers (6 Map 1) V5 and last a sit start to superstition, V7. Then in the not-sit start category Amnesia has been re-sent (since broken hold) to create a real balancey V8. The project (24 Map 11) near Roger finally was sent and named Dumbo.
A new solution to the classic problem Old Timer has been found at V5! This problem was V6 untill a hold broke a year ago and then was upgraded to V7. See if you can figure outthe V5 solution that has gone unnoticed by so many.
Up near the Kelvinator in Quantum is a slopey arete (8.3 Map 27) which is V8. The sit start to a V2 (26 Map 11) is V7. On the other side of the pond is a crimpy sit start V6 (42 Map 14). Close by on the back of a small boulder is a V6 (10.1 Map 10).
And one more, Misty Frequencies V9 (46 Map 17) is a sit start near Fade Away. Crimp really hard with the right and left on good sloper - puff your cheeks and pull on - throw left hand to sloper, hold the swing - put right foot on and double left hand to jug. Done, just a V4 to finish.
Near ocean Cirrus Cumulus V6 (30 Map 15) is another groove by the groove master.
Another sit start, this time to The Remedy (35.5 Map 17), V9.
Two new climbs have been added in a somewhat new style to what exist already. First a lie down start to a V6 sit start which is V8 (7 Map 3). Then a loop (26 Map 8) of a small archway V8, much like a table loop. What do you think? firstname.lastname@example.org
Up behind Slapper in Quantum Field a new groove climb named 'A River Runs Though It' V6, kinda smeary (83.1 Map 6). Next up is 'Get In The Hole' V8, located on the hill (41.1 Map 15), it involves a very small left hand crimper and some slapping. Around the Joe 90 area is the short 'Kinder Surprise' V8 (28.1 Map 19), a small egg like boulder with a hideous sit start to what looks like a easy top. Just near here the 7m arete (42.8 Map 23) next to 'Ice' was sent - 'The Big, the Bad and the Ugly' V6 could create one hell of a fall, very hard to judge were you would land. Another strange V5 sit start to a V1 (63 Map 6) which resembles a Victoria Rec Center problem.
Across to Spittle Hill now. On the first big boulder on your left, you know the one below the Mushroom boulder, has some new problems. On the front the left arete has a sit start with a campus move or two - V6. And right of this is a sit start to Tricky, this V9 starts down to the left on some small crimps then to a pock and alot of fiddling around to get up Tricky.
Oh and the big Quantum Field list has been updated - 97 V6's, 45 V7's, 33 V8's, 19 V9's, 8 V10+'s in Quantum Field alone.
The Results for the Mantle Fest: mwmf.xls
Thanks to Jamie for putting everything together and thanks to the 68 boulderers who turned up, I hope you triceps heal fast!
Near Ocean a new run & jump classic has been added(20.1 Map 15), said to be the hardest thing the first assentionist has climbed it involves running up a blank wall to catch a big sloper, and of course a mantle. Above hear next to Magic Line a new slab to vegetated crack was added, probably in the V9 range.